Aftermath

Back from Mexico, adjusting to the rigours of winter again and shovelling snow... We're learning more each day about last week's storm in Michoacan and the extensive damage that occurred just after our departure from the region. Angangueo, the town most often used as a staging ground for visitors to the butterfly sanctuaries, was almost completely destroyed by flooding and landslides on February 3. At least 18 people were killed, many others are still missing. We wonder about the fate of our friend, Francisco.

Other communities in the region, including Ocampo and San Felipe Alzati, suffered extensive damage as well, and were declared disaster areas. It's all very sad. And who knows how the butterfly colonies fared. The storm brought heavy rains for four days, February 1st to the 4th. There was hail on the first day in Tlalpujahua, where we were, and more hail in Angangueo. The butterfly sanctuaries are about 500 metres higher in altitude, and likely are no longer accessible. A fragile community in a hostile environment...

At the El Rosario Monarch Sanctuary

Primary destination for this trip: a visit to the wintering grounds of the Monarch butterflies, high up in the hills of Michoacan. It's a fair drive from Angangueo, through Ocampo and up into the hills to El Rosario. There are seven protected butterfly sanctuaries in the region here, two of them are open to the public. We've been traveling in Mexico for six days, heading into some pretty remote country.

This morning's excursion is only 45 minutes of topes and switchbacks before we are directed into a large, mostly empty, parking lot. No entrance gate in sight, but we follow a path into the forest, surrounded on both sides by little makeshift stands selling fruit, water, tacos and treats, along with a lot of souvenirs highlighting an obvious butterfly theme. They were all eager to see us, but we had further to go...

About 275 tortilla stands later, we finally emerged into a clearing and found ourselves at the real entrance to the Monarch Sanctuary. Now we were confronted by dozens of guides offering to escort us up the mountain, by foot or on horseback. We politely declined, we like to set our own pace.

It was about a 45 minute hike, lots of benches along the trail, which turned out to be really handy. At 3400 metres in altitude, you can get tuckered out pretty easily. Then, there they were, thousands and thousands of Monarchs, clinging to the trees, but taking flight when the sun emerged from behind the clouds. It was a pretty impressive experience, fascinating and humbling too. We spent most of the day up on that mountain, met a lot of Mexican schoolkids, had a memorable time.

The cemetery in Tzintzuntzan

Mexican cemeteries are colourful places at the best of times, but the afternoon light made this one pop right out. Day of the Dead celebrations are particularly popular in these parts, we're told. There's a whole photo-essay lurking in here, but we were three months late for the festivities... another visit is definitely warranted.

Landing in Patzcuaro

It's sunny and a reasonably warm day. This town holds surprises around every corner, some great museums and cultural centres. Patzcuaro has the designation pueblo magico, which means magical town. There's an old church just down the block from our hotel that's been converted to a public library. Don't you just love recycling projects. Now to find a good restaurant. We could spend a week exploring this place, at least.

Back on the Road

Okay, well we're not on the road yet... still in preparation mode. Our destination this month is the Central Highlands of Mexico: Morelia (another UNESCO World Heritage Site), Patzcuaro and the Mariposa Monarch Sanctuary. We're off to check out the butterflies.

This is a new spot for me. I've traveled extensively in Mexico, but usually further to the south of the country, in Chiapas and Oaxaca. Don't know what we'll find in terms of archeological sites, but old colonial towns can be great fun to explore, and there's always good ol' Mexican food, tequila and cerveza.

We depart in 11 days. Hasta luego!